Episode 49: Postcard from Liguria, Genova…Ancient Doorways and Bitter Oranges, Italy Travel Share
Ciao from Italy and Welcome to Podcast #49
The first podcast I recorded was right in the heart of Genova, and the second from the garden in Camogli. Both places play a lovely role in my travel experience and what I share on the podcast. First to Genova…. I often think that Genova is the most wonderful assault to the senses, a bustling port city and the capital of Liguria. A place with a vast history as a Maritime Republic and naval power close to the border of France, and on the beautiful Italian Riviera. These days, a historic city full of character, culture, beauty, urban decay, personality and dare I say chaos. But a beautiful welcome chaos. I love the play of ancient buildings, palm trees, history, Belle Époque architecture, bright blue sky and the multi-cultural layers that have made this city what it is. So my photo gallery and commentary will start with Genova and take you to Camogli, a small seaside village that is about 40 minutes on the more meandering urban train in the region of Liguria, Italy.
When you wander out of the Piazza Principe Railway it is all palm trees and a welcome moment from native Christoforo Columbo….The Genovese explorer who made his way to the Americas to navigate the great seas and beyond. It is a welcome sight under a bright blue sky. I made my way over to the Savoy Hotel, a pink beauty up on the hill beyond the palm trees. 
As you weave through the historic centre of Genova you find many church and street corners with Saints and Madonnas. Even though all the caruggi (thin alley ways) and narrow streets offer you a bunch of directions, the fact that there are religious icons everywhere makes for a comforting presence especially when you imagine yourself getting lost all of the time. Fortunately this is my second visit to this city and I managed to not lose my way was certainly affirming. This is image is the Basilica of San Pietro in Banchi. Nestled between apartments and banks and a stone throw from the waterfront. If you would like to know more about this part of the world, I dive into Genova and its history in the Podcast: La Superba, Genova #28
The historic Caffe Pasticceria Mangini (1876), on Via Roma not far from Palazzo Ducale and the large noble square Piazza de Ferrari. Mangini has been in business for some time now, first as "Fossati & Gismondi", later "Gismondi & Mangini". And now just "Mangini", boasting elegant period architecture, old world charm, and the most marvellous feeling of Italia. But be warned it is difficult to decide what to savour, the patisserie is beautiful and decadent and I had a kind of mango Ferrero Rocher small cake/ball thing and I am ashamed to say I thought I had an image of the name but have absolutely discovered I have no idea what it is called.....anyway it was delicious.
If you are in this area of the world the next stop is the historic Pietro Romangeno fu Stefano (1780) a member of the "Locali Storici D'Italia", the historical places of Italy. I was just thinking of buying my girls some of the chocolates when I was offered the Mandarin dipped in dark chocolate pieces. To say the least these candied fruits are jewel like and taste sublime. Artisanal and regional the fruits are preserved with sugar but they only have a short shelf life, there are no additives or preservatives per se. The fruits are sourced from Liguria. And there is a chocolate press on site. It is chemist like, pristine and an elegant place to tempt the senses. On Via Roma, in the historical centre of Genova. Visit: Romanengo Antica Confetteria
I mentioned in the podcast where I originally recorded the podcast was across the street from this historical "Pasticceria Liquoreria Marescotti di Cavo". The day before I had the most wonderful conversation with Lorenzo and Joseph about the Pilgrimage walk from Bologna to Genova after they heard me chatting to Ricki, one of the Waiters/Barista in the Caffe. (Joseph was happy to hear my Australian accent) I made it my mission that second day to find the Caffe again before I visited the Palazzo Spinola. Inside is a wonderful Caffe that oozes old world charm. Next time I go back for some kind of alcoholic beverage at the marble bar inside. They are known for their Amaretti di Voltaggio cookies so that is worth a visit. This street corner is always busy and leads off in a dozen directions. You can sit outside and sip a quick espresso or just take a table across the other side of the Piazza and watch the world float by.
"Pasticceria Liquoreria Marescotti di Cavo" 1780
Inside the National Gallery di Palazzo Spinola. Genova has 42 UNESCO World Heritage listed palaces and sites known as the Palazzi dei Rolli. They were once all private residences and these days Museums and Galleries where the noble and wealthy families presided. On my ticket was Palazzo Spinola and Palazzo Reale. They were both in short walking distance of each other. Although there are many more and would take a few days to really explore the Strada Nuova, these days called Via Garibaldi. In all there 150 residences that were developed in the 16th Century under the Republic of Genoa. Within the Palazzo Spinola is an art gallery, chapel, salon, dining room, hall of mirrors (pictured above), kitchen, historical archives and many more elegant rooms. (Open from 1.30-7pm)
The Ligurian kitchen stocked with copper pots, traditional Ceramica and daily utensils from the 19th Century. I was quite moved by the beauty of this space and the preservation of the every day objects within the large room that was located between two noble floors.
The Palazzo Reale (Royal Palace) also known as the Palazzo Stefano on Via Balbi just near the historic University (one of Europe's oldest)... It was a joy to wander the vast rooms of this palace and meander the gardens with views out to the port.
Genova is an exceptional city with no shortage of places, churches, castles and historic to visit. And the food is wonderful. So let's go there for a minute.....
Wandering the Porta Antica with a brown paper cone of Frutti di Mare and cece (chickpea) a common ingredient in the local shops. So good, from the Friggitoria (Image Below)
I still have much to learn about Ligurian cuisine but one way to discover the true cuisine of Genova is to try the off the beaten path restaurants. In a back street near the Palazzo Spinola was this little gem of a Ristorante Locanda Spinola, that specialises in Pesce & Vini (Fish & wine). Since I had a little wait for the Gallery to open I sat and enjoyed a very fine meal. 'AntiPasti' - "Mix di Fritto Baccala, Mandorlato, Panissette, Carciofe e Acciughe Impanate". Now I could have easily gotten away with this as a main with a glass of red. I know white is more traditional with fish, but I was in the mood for a red wine, so I had a glass of "Funaro Gotto Nero". And yes, the next dish was a 'Primi' but no less I was exceptionally satisfied with "Ravioli di Barraging al Tocco". Perfect. Honestly, I wish I was there for lunch right now.
The Caruggi, the small and thin alleys are all over the city. I noticed this time there was much renovation going on behind a few, certainly you feel better walking with a companion, but many are short and lead you to the next piazza too….
"Bar Cavo", the image was taken on the walk back to the railway station. I love stopping here for a fresh orange juice and a plate of their Trofie al Pesto. Pesto is one of the true highlights of this region, its creamy, light and paired with the long trofie style pasta. This little bar/cafe is unassuming, but has great food and is quite close to Piazza Principe Genova’s main railway station if heading back to Milan or France or wherever.
The perfect pick me up after a long train journey from La Spezia and Parma. The Trofie al Pesto and a Pigato Vino at Bar Cavo....
Camogli, Liguria on the Italian Riviera
Beautiful Camogli, a small fishing village perched on the coast of Liguria. Also known as the Golfo Paradiso in the Riviera di Levante. I noticed there were many hikers walking though the village Saturday morning on their hike over the coastal mountainside. There are a number of popular walks through the national park. And I might say, the Italians who were visiting this village over the few days that I was there were just as enamoured with this view as I was. Beautiful Italy - the gift that keeps on giving.